MEXICO 2024

Oaxaca: Oaxaca City, Central Valley and Mixteca Highlands

Our first post-pandemic tour took us back to a favorite place—Oaxaca! Oaxaca’s popularity as a travel destination has grown in recent years but we took our guests beyond Oaxaca City to explore the Central Valley and Mixteca Highlands. Our exceptional local guides, Ana Paula and Prisilla, provided unique insight into the abundant handcraft traditions and rich culture of the area, which is home to the indigenous Mixtec and Zapotec people. In and around Oaxaca City, we saw dynamic artisan enterprises at work. These included Hermano Maguey, an organization that partners with designers and artisans to develop new products made with waste from mezcal production through its FIBRA initiative. Fibers from discarded agave leaves (which look like horse hair!) are being made into bags, curtains, lampshades, tapestries, and other items. We had the pleasure of meeting Remigio Mestas, the founder of Los Baúles de Juana Cata, who has supported the production of high-quality indigenous textiles for decades. We also had a special “behind the scenes” visit to the Museo Textil de Oaxaca with our guide, Ana Paula Fuentes, who was the museum’s founding director, and we visited a multi-arts venue outside the city which is housed in old textile factory.

The next part of our journey took us deeper into Oaxaca, to the mountainous Mixteca Alta. Our hotel was located on the central plaza of a bustling regional town where we had a chance to experience the activities of daily, local life. On day trips, we visited remote mountain villages where we met women who continue to make and wear traditional clothing, the style of which varies between communities. These communities are rarely—if ever—visited by foreigners. It was a privilege to be a guest in the homes of these indigenous female artisans and entrepreneurs, where we also enjoyed lunch, getting a taste for traditional, home-style cooking. It was interesting to see a slice of Mexico’s diverse indigenous culture, which informs and inspires many contemporary designers today. On the way back to Oaxaca City, we had brunch at the home of a family of potters in the town of Yanhuitlán, known for it’s grand old church and convent.

Our next craft explorations took us to the Central Valley, not far from the city. Stepping back in time, we visited Mitla, the Zapotec archeological site known for its stunning geometric stone fretwork, which continues to be a source of inspiration for designers and artisans. Also deeply rooted in Oaxaca’s history is cochineal dyeing, which we learned about while visiting family-run weaving and dyeing studios in Teotitlán del Valle, a town famous for its flat-woven rugs. It was especially gratifying to meet women artists, some of whom are now renowned for their work, and to hear their fascinating life stories. We also enjoyed lunch at the beautiful ex-hacienda Guadalupe and learned about an organization which supports collaborations between international designers and local artisans in various mediums.